Chasing the Pink Unicorn: lessons from 15 years of street photography
A collection of street photography cliches was trying to talk to me. I was standing on a bridge in the centre of Bangkok, camera on a tripod in front of me. He was carrying a Leica M6 and a nice Billingham bag. He took frequent asides from our brief conversation to take photos of something that was clearly beyond the reach of his lens. He said: “Yeah, man” a lot. It was all very performative. Yet, it was my fault. I’d complimented the bag.
Cartier-Bresson was the Big Bang for street photographers and has this tortuous encounter to answer for. His geometric compositions took the everyday – or at least what passed for the everyday where Cartier-Bresson’s wealth allowed him to be – and turned it into something interesting. Like me, you might hate those who look at the likes of Cartier-Bresson, stating: “What’s the big deal. I could do that.” And never do. Be brave enough to put that claim into action. If street photography is something you’re tempted by, here’s some of the additional barriers you might encounter along the way.
Beginner’s Lark
So, you have a camera. Now you’re going to be Cartier-Bresson or at least his nearest non-union equivalent. Not so. This is the first lesson to learn. The first hurdle is the camera itself. Focus is straightforward enough today, if you can get the autofocus settings right and get the thing out of its automatic modes. Having a partner that doesn’t mess with your settings helps too. Sometime around 2012, I stood in a park on the eastern side of Thailand trying to take a photo of nothing special, angrily asking which damned mode stopped it being blurred. Turned out it was none of them. Pre-sets are three-in-one coffee. Learn manual settings.
The second hurdle is the unhelpful ocean of self-help literature with adjective-laden titles mystifying the whole process. The beginner must work their way through these endless grifters preying on enthusiasm and naivete. Photography isn’t a cheap hobby and sharks smelling disposable income know this.
Third is the amateur/professional distinction. Never take advice from people you wouldn’t naturally ask for help. Avoid feedback wrapped in modal verb abuse. Of the infinite choices available in the moment, how in error we were not to focus on the singular action you would have taken. We could have done it that way. Yes, we could have painted it pink and called it a unicorn. But we didn’t. You’ll soon discover plenty of useless people who’ll think you’re entitled to their opinion. Stop asking permission or seeking approval.
The next surmountable issue is a toxic mix of cliches, enthusiast social media groups and gear idolatry. First, you get all the wannabe National Geographic contributors taking the same cliches of orange sunsets and misty sunrises, long exposure waterfalls and uninspired unoriginal tedium. Avoid Instagram. It ceased being about quality photography a long time ago. When you’re framing up a shot, ask: “Have I seen this on Instagram ten times this week?”
Sadly, gear does matter. I was convinced of this after browsing the photo section of an inflight magazine that helpfully labelled all its award-winning images with brands and exposure triangle settings. No-one is using an entry level DSLR from 2013, despite the fact the images hold up perfectly. You could, but pink unicorns.
Leica groups will instantly divest you of the notion that the newest or the most expensive branded gear puts you in the same conversation as McCurry or Erwitt. The camera might be a costly signal of financial viability, but it also signals vanity and a total lack of critical awareness. Or a lost soul on a bridge trying to totem their way into a fashionable tribe. Why do people post so many terrible photos taken outside Waitrose on a Sunday morning or of their horrendous ginger children? And why would you use a Leica to do so? I’m guessing they haven’t learnt the recolour tool in photoshop yet.
Once you’ve got past the technical issues and the crippling fear of being judged unworthy, you need to find something to focus on. I spent many months filling memory cards with images of ceiling fans, extractors, and cups. You get itchy and enthusiastic shutter finger. It’s a phase, and much like compulsive teenage masturbation and canned lager, you’ll grow out of it eventually. Think of such images as sketchbook doodles. No-one will ever tell you when you’re ready to begin.
Next, overcome the warranted feeling of self-awareness whenever you appear in public with your camera. Yes, you are going to feel like a total arse. Stop blaming the camera. To the normies, you are of no more consequence than annoying trainspotters, annoying cyclists and scary street corner ranters. I once set up a tripod shot in Pays Basque just as one of the overly sensitive local police decided to wander through my frame. My name went in the antiterrorism book. You’ll just have to accept that photographers are a social nuisance; so is Herpes Simplex.
Fight or Flight
Most cameras end up at the bottom of cupboards; a significant portion of those dwindling camera sales just didn’t work out. iPhone mediocrity is a powerful thing if you are trying to capture the blossoming of your Gollum-like children. Most people’s photography aspirations don’t develop much past that. If it does, it becomes dad’s way of coping with his Al Bundy-like existence.
If you achieve escape velocity, can get outside and avoid getting your camera stolen by the local drug-addicted hoodie, you’ll find suburbia less than inspiring. Yes, you might be the next Tish Murtha but the odds are against it. Walking the streets of any depressing urban hellscape will have you chasing the dealers soon enough. If you still cling possessively to that camera, follow Steve McCurry’s advice: if you want to take good photos, leave home. From experience I can tell you the opposite side of the planet is the ideal starting place.
Then one unsuspecting day, when you are struggling with the exposure triangle, heat stroke and chilli poisoning, you’ll click on a video about Cartier-Bresson. You’ll recognise something more interesting than portrait, sport, and pornographic photography exists. And then you’re hooked. Suddenly, that business arrangement with that hoodie might have been a healthier long-term financial choice.
Location, Location, Location
You must make peace with street photography being about luck. Failing to find anything worth a second look is really nothing personal. Yes, you can do something to get yourself into a more favourable location. What is a good photo worth to you? Are you a Sunday photographer or the sort of driven crazy prepared to buy a one-way ticket to the nearest warzone?
The next obvious problem is you need to be somewhere that actually has streets. Many places just have roads. If you like magic hour images and glorious rich colours, I recommend trying an extended few years in the developing world. I spent three in Burma, and it turned out to be – at the time – a street shooter’s paradise. Avoid Morocco – notoriously hostile to photographers.
Developed named destinations tend to be generic and sterile. Avoid anywhere tourist guides recommend, otherwise you’ll just end up chasing the same Instagram slop as everyone else. Pleasant environments make for dull pictures. As much as I hated the dirt, pollution and traffic in Kathmandu, it’s a people-rich environment and the narrow streets were ideal locations. Just consider what you’re stepping in. A good pair of rubber-soled Vibram walking shoes are essential – they’ll protect you from the cold, uneven floors and the muck. A good facemask will have your lungs thanking you later.
The Cartier-Bresson Fallacy
Cartier-Bresson’s legacy has fostered all sorts of unrealistic and unhelpful myths. You’ll have seen the footage of Henri dancing around his oblivious subjects. If you didn’t attend ninja academy, you’ll need a more realistic strategy.
Perhaps anonymity is an urban thing. In your racially homogenous environment, you might well be part of that crowd. Not so in a small town in central Burma. You’ll get used to hearing the local language equivalent of “Oh my god, ma! Come look what’s coming down the street.” Kiss anonymity goodbye and embrace visibility. I made prints for many of the people I photographed, and that won hearts and minds better than sneaking. The trade-off is accepting you’ll end up in a lot of selfies with the locals.
The next myth to bust is the 28mm-50mm lie. Sure, great work was done with wide to standard lenses, but proximity will disturb and chase away many good subjects. Forget you-can’t-use-that lens-for-that-task nonsense. Want to shoot street with a 70-200mm? Do it. Remember, it’s about the image, not the gear. Do what works for you with what you have.
Carrying two cameras works for many journalists. If you’re bogged down by your gear, you might as well have a sign on your back shouting “come mug me”. Get yourself a generic day sack – and something waterproof – and limit to one camera in the hand and one in the bag. If your accessories look like body armour, you’re doing it wrong.
“You camera come!”
Good advice is as rare as pink unicorn shit. My essential point is, to borrow a term from American project management: “just fucking do it”. If you have that feeling there’s something going on out there and you’re missing it, take HCB’s advice and carry that camera with you everywhere you go. One afternoon in central Burma, I stumbled across a local festival with a precession dressed as cows. A man shouted: “You camera come!” at me. Apart from the bonus of learning the syntax of the local language, you might stumble into something memorable. An elderly Burmese gentleman tending his garden asked if I were a ‘correspondent’. An odd man on a Thai bridge kept saying: “Yeah, man.” Nothing beats knowing you’ve witnessed things the majority have not. Just remember what you’re shooting isn’t likely to wear a groove in the historical record. Should that stop you from doing it?
Bizarrely our culture seems to think ‘experience’ counts as some sort of capital. If it is, abundance makes it a grossly devalued one. An expert is someone who’s made every conceivable mistake in a given area. You should go make your own. Street photography isn’t breaking news or cinematography; it’s less about pictures and more about navigating through a strange world.
But what would I know? I’m just an idiot with a camera.
Geistbusters
On nudity, nihilism and new genres: what do sexploitation filmmakers have to tell us about the genres of tomorrow’s cinema?
If you’ve seen any of Spider Noir, you might have lost interest at its simulacra low-contrast black and white cinematography. Celebrated? Much of it was a wishy-washy middle grey mess. As with all such attempted reanimations of old genres, there’s that feeling that while the show approximated the look, it remained incapable of resurrecting its spirit. Kathleen Kennedy was right: it’s time to let yesterday’s genres die.
Cinema has always been a technologically driven medium. Any proletarian telling of its history makes plain every innovation put cameras into more and more hands. While photography was once the hobby of the landed gentry, the middle 20th Century saw grubby journalists crawling across battlefields documenting as they went. Celluloid got smaller; cameras got lighter.
Yet insufficient consideration is given to how such technology co-evolved alongside the medium’s defining genres. A genre archetype is nothing more than a recipe of storytelling tropes that proved popular enough to be imitated. While we conceive of such genres as generally fixed, let’s contend they are plastic and that fluidity is in part caused by evolving technology. The western’s popularity waned as its grandeur and spectacle lessened and TV over-familiarised it. As those lighter, cheaper cameras turned the Vietnam War into nightly news, the brutal visions of Peckinpah and Leone devastated the western’s simplistic Zoroastrian morality, raising the audience’s appetite for blood, gore and cruelty. Cowboys and Indians were suddenly tame and old-fashioned.
Of course, the western didn’t die out entirely; it remains, modified and downgraded, much as T-Rex did by becoming a chicken. Other genres went extinct entirely. Newsreels, Buster Crabbe serials, surfer movies – now only visible as trace elements in the archive. Who here has ever seen a German Bergfilm? Workers leaving the Lumiere factory no longer inspire awe; trains pulling into stations no longer cause panic in theatres. If genres date at a comparable rate to the technology that creates them, they must document forgotten epochs of public taste. Have you never wondered what your grandfather kept quiet about watching?
Barbed Wire Dolls
All such refined discussions should start with Jess Franco’s Barbed Wire Dolls (1976). The film is a Swiss-produced women in prison sexploitation movie made for the German market. By degree, it’s part skin flick, part technically inept joke. While the film was the definition of a niche genre at the time, its content and form are unacceptable by today’s puritan standards. That caveat is indicative. Franco’s wider work is the X-rated poster child of dead genre.
In the film, Maria (Lina Romay) is imprisoned after her father (Franco) dies trying to sexually assault her. The prison is a hellish black site of sadistic guards, sexual exploitation and electro-torture. Unlike other more famous prison movies, nobody triumphs and hope does not set anyone free.
Today, Barbed Wire Dolls is dismissed as male gaze sleaze, yet some maintain it is worthy of re-evaluation as it’s arguably one of the bleakest films ever made. Its vision of a man-made hell elevates it above other films in its genre. This seemingly bizarre mix of tone and content seems radically at odds with what the audience must have expected. The film feels, to use a modern term, is more a bait and switch. Anyone looking for a good helping of pornography must have left whatever shady cinema they saw it in just a little unsatisfied. Did Franco have free reign with it so long as he hit the skin quota? Given it was released, we must infer that placeholder content is not a modern innovation. It delivered the basics, to a minimum of technical and genre standards. Its exploitative narrative style, obviously not timed around performance or story logic echoes the horror cinema of Fulci, Bava and Argento.
Moreover, the film stands in significant distinction to the many other more skin-heavy movies in its genre. For contrast, consider Gefangen Frauen/Island Women (1979/1980), made by Barbed Wire Dolls producer Edwin C. Dietrich. This film, whilst nominally the same genre, is less a brutal prison drama and more about a correctional nudist colony. It opens with a not-entirely-germane-to-the-plot topless beauty competition, segues via a cliched El Presidente plotting, to the army kidnapping sex-workers from a brothel.
What follows is heavy on skin and significantly tamer than Barbed Wire Dolls. The filmmaker’s dedication to maximising the nudity really should be praised for its sheer insistence: exercising in the prison yard (naked), fighting (naked), breaking rocks (naked) and even launching clay pigeons (naked) – all with perfectly painted nails. The tone is lighter than Barbed Wire Dolls too, with one character unironically commenting: “It really isn’t that bad here”. Perhaps that’s creditable to less than faithful dubbing.
The formula gives itself away as the film shares the same kill the-doctor-to-aid-escape-ruse as Barbed Wire Dolls. The film has its politics too, damning revolutionary movements as much as the dictators they’re fighting. It has more of a Shawshank Redemption ending with one of the heroines returning happily to the sex trade, one becoming the next dictator’s mistress and the third disappears from the plot entirely. The shocks of Barbed Wire Dolls are replaced by a recognisable pornographer’s leer.
Franco has his own cult status; for some he was the Orson Welles of sleaze. He and Lina Romay lived and worked together for decades and died within a year of each other. Certainly, their cinema seems too confrontational for today’s mainstream tastes, but their work has enough fans to have warranted Franco a Guardian obituary. Their devotion to cinema is almost as moving as that of Welles and Gary Graver.
Female Vampire (1973) is recognised as Franco’s best film due to its dream-like abstraction and remains notorious for the 19-year-old Romay walking naked toward the camera in its opening scene. It was edited into many variant forms, by turns a horror story and/or a softcore one; it was never one fixed genre. Despite such identikit end results, it shows a genuine vision with added storytelling innovation as the vampire ultimately commits suicide, unable to live with her nature.
Barbed Wire Dolls was a genre fusion of tone and content, diluted in later films; Female Vampire wasn’t a fixed genre at all. For such fringe filmmakers, genre wasn’t an unflinching mould; it was just another aspect of the craft to be improved and refined. Look at any of yesterday’s popular hits – The Bodyguard comes to mind – and ask: “Why was that popular?” or in the case of Franco’s output: “What were they thinking?” That such things seem inexplicable to you proves the point. Times change. Popularity, genre conventions and the conditions that create them are as ephemeral as mayflies.
Films such as those of Franco and Dietrich seem half-focussed, trying to be cinema and sleaze at the same time. The limits of the day’s technology are obvious; many look amateurish in the extreme and they’re barely cinema in any conventional sense. Yet, their sheer quantity meant a production pipeline existed and a clear market-driven evolutionary pressure was on their makers. Of course, their replacement was hardcore porn. You only need to watch Barbed Wire Dolls to see how different cinema was back then. Franco clearly knew his niche audience. Sadly, his cinema proved a gateway drug in a dead-end genre in the age dominated by Rocky, Death Stars and Traci Lords.
Bygones and Has-Beens
What happened to Hal Hartley? In the late 80s and 90s, Hartley was a leading light in indie cinema, mentioned in the same breath as Kevin Smith, Robert Rodriguez, Quentin Tarantino and Atom Egoyan. Coming out of the Industrial Light and Magic 80s, Hartley’s cinema felt proletarian. Obtainable. Students couldn’t compete against Jurassic Park but might have taken on Hartley. His best film remains Amateur (1994), a story of an amnesiac pornographer and the woman trying to get away from him. Echoes, with dramatic licence, of Franco and Romay. Like Franco, Hartley made movies until the market and funding shifted. His niche closed as cinema went digital and everyone suddenly decided to like Iron Man.
To the same extent, all those straight-to-video 90s erotic thrillers starring the Shannons plotted the same arc. The genre was killed by the rise of internet porn. The brilliant Basic Instinct (1992) – a subversive Hitchcockian thriller Hitchcock couldn’t have made due to the standards of his day – was by degree in Franco’s tradition. Unlike Franco’s work, it came with a fashionable 90s feminist endorsement insisting the exploitation was empowerment.
Pick any time and date example of genre from the last century of cinema, go forward a few years and you’ll find a derivative form where the old paradigm has been ironed out and strip-mined. Yes, all the Michael Bayhem that followed sits squarely in a tradition shared with Franco. All are unitary examples of niche-focussed cinema in a medium where all originality eventually undergoes a big screen heat death. John Wick. Marvel, and Transformers are movies shorn of any nuance or subtlety. It’s evolution saying: “That worked. More of that!” Every potential trait, every fledgling genre is given a chance before an innovation-hungry audience. Public taste is stimulated by what is barely technically possible. The next new thing makes the drug more potent. Successful movies are called ‘hits’ for a reason.
Speciation
Franco’s cinema, the equivalent of 100 cigarettes a day and exhaust fumes, is the perfect example of a dayfly genre. In many ways, Franco was archaeopteryx and Barbed Wire Dolls a transitory form. But then all genres are transitory: they all depend on time and place. We could easily have picked Airport and The Towering Inferno.
Cinema’s current decline is due in part to our genres having ceased their evolutionary development. Cultural critics are calling Year Zero and decrying yesterday’s popular as ‘problematic’. Yet, filmmakers have always been detritivores. The theatre chains were built on the repurposed corpses of music hall. That same repurposing can be seen today with our genre entertainment – the instantly forgotten remake-rebootquels are a denial of a basic truth of the medium – the new technology that made those properties so iconic was what kept them one step ahead of what the audience knew it wanted – four decades ago. No matter how enjoyable Masters of the Universe is, it’s still a reanimated corpse flopping around in the zombi-zeitgeist. Remaking Barbed Wire Dolls would prove no more successful. Except for deep-frozen pathogens, such reheated archaea are unlikely to reestablish their dominance.
Streaming is the most recent innovation to hit the film industry and the narrative run to support it is pure spin. Some maintain streaming is the revolution: instant and inexhaustive. The internet was that too and it killed the appetite for newspapers. Firewalls went up around all the major publications, just as they have now around the legacy studios. The non-standard running times and obscene budgets of prestige TV have reduced the quality of the output. Pilot season and shows aired whilst in production used to mean listening to the audience. That feedback loop is gone, and editorial is no longer responsible for quality. The auteurs of the 70s are mocked for the scale of their self-indulgence, yet much of streaming is guilty of the same crime.
The recent output of the name brands – Star Trek, Star Wars – all failed as the creators ran off their audience and made inorganic changes to the genres. Algorithms have improved nothing: today’s writing is sloppy. Where did the dangerous, the risqué and the antiauthoritarian spirit cinema inherited from the music hall go? When cinema became moderated content, it became safe and bland. Cinema became TV and TV shares three walls and a transparent front with panopticon prison cells.
The old genres are not working today. Nearly two decades of post-modern deconstruction and subverted expectations have killed off more ideas and forms than the Permian Mass Extinction. Are we forever condemned to simulacra reanimated corpses like Spider Noir? It wasn’t AI but its fusion aesthetic meant it came very close. Maggie Gyllenhaal’s The Bride! perfectly epitomises another of today’s zombi-genres: the activist remake. It is an evolutionary dead-end: it didn’t evolve organically nor is it driven by an audience’s appetite. Snowballs leave bigger fossil traces. Making your fusion film genre isn’t enough. You need some of today’s anima in your zeitgeist.
This lacklustre and stale output explains why our cinemas now resemble Easter Island after the trees were cut down. Niche speciation is going on elsewhere: Hentaied turned the Evil Dead’s infamous sexual assault scene into a porn sub-genre. Anime’s genre eco-system co-evolved technology, audience appetite and distribution. The kids lap it up because it’s fresh. Those Avatar sequels, superficially technical wonders, weren’t fresh and had less cultural impact than that snowball: technology, genre and… nothing.
Yesterday’s cutting edge is now a pair of safety scissors. Yet, the movies of Franco and his peers feel like coiled springs; today’s feel like flat soda. Current filmmakers are speaking yesterday’s language; like the internal combustion engine, cinema is a 19th Century product, once wrapped in a monocultural audience. Its day has passed. We were big on movies, right up until the time we found something better. New technology always fractures the market by creating new niches sating new desires. Theatre begat opera and music hall. Now we have AI, OnlyFans, TikTok, Snapchat, Steam and Roblox. In the age of ballistic attention spans, the movies are as redundant as inch-thick Russian novels.
The eternally optimistic point to cheaper cine-cameras as the medium’s saviour: Hollywood quality is at your proletarian fingertips. Yet, there’s that feeling of tomorrow’s cinema being born with an extra thumb. Supergirl looks like DaVinci Resolve: The Movie: technically superb but lifeless. These news technologies aren’t improving the audience’s experience. They’re just Cherry Coke. Franco knew enough to stick to his niche using much less technology.
Filmmaking will survive; yet cinema’s future is highly doubtful. Tomorrow’s challenge is making something the mass audience might have FOMO for. Let’s call time on the remakes and rebootquels. None of these hit because genre is time/space dependent. Today’s reheated ready-meal movies lack cultural relevance and a pulse: those beautiful new cameras are just skin grafts on decades-old corpses.
Cinema has always been a medium driven by punctuated technological evolution and a fern-spike in new genres. Today’s challenge is no longer one of affordability, quality or even distribution. All those Star Wars AI YouTube channels have shown us new ways of doing the same old thing. What’s old is old again. Where is our fertile new ground?
We’re seeing cultural synthesis, not thesis and antithesis. Many deride Franco and his like, but they knew their audience and genres well enough to produce what sold. Genre is a market driver. Today’s cinema output is planned-economy Lysenkoism. The commissioning editors and executives are all market-deniers. They all need to take a simple and obvious lesson from Franco: make films for a real audience. Filmmaking is a vulgar medium. Its place is not solving world problems. It’s meant to be shameless escapism. Embrace it and move on.
To survive, the medium, the genre and its technology must be allowed to co-evolve. Let’s hope there’s a comet coming.
Schindler’s Watch List
The problem with cinema’s sacred cows is the lingering aroma of bullshit. Can I help it if Nazisploitation movies are inherently more honest?
Full article here:
https://brightlightsfilm.com/anyone-miss-movies-that-made-people-vomit-schindlers-watch-list
Bangkok, Thailand, June 2026

Bangkok, Thailand, June 2026

Bangkok, Thailand, June 2026

Bangkok, Thailand, June 2926

Bangkok, June 2026

Bangkok, June 2026
